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  • YSL总裁抨击WWD过分关注Raf Simons和Hedi Slimane比较(图)
YSL总裁抨击WWD过分关注Raf Simons和Hedi Slimane比较(图)
来源:无时尚中文网 编辑:编辑部 2012年11月28日 9:54:46

[导读] 在巴黎时装周一个月后,最具权威的媒体WWD用图标的形式做了一篇Raf Simons和Hedi Slimane比较的报道,从社交媒体,二人所服务品牌的营收状况等等。就是因为这一点引发了YSL总裁Paul Deneve的强烈不满,为此专门发了一封公开信给了WWD。

  在巴黎时装周一个月后,最具权威的媒体WWD用图标的形式做了一篇Raf Simons和Hedi Slimane比较的报道,从社交媒体,二人所服务品牌的营收状况等等。就是因为这一点引发了YSL总裁Paul Deneve的强烈不满,为此专门发了一封公开信给了WWD。

  Paul Deneve称WWD的报道有失公允,只引用了三个编辑的言论,其中一个还是在巴黎时装周期间和Hedi Slimane有过过节的Cathy Horyn。Paul Deneve诘问WWD为何不用意大利、法国、日本,以及中国编辑的评论……以达到平衡全面报道。除此之外,他还表示作为最具权威的媒体应该更多的将焦点放在整个产业,而不是两个设计师身上。言外之意可能就是WWD,你丫不要煽风点火了。

  WWD倒是保持一贯作风,原文刊登了Paul Deneve的公开信,并辅以标题“YSL's Paul Deneve: 'Hedi vs. Raf' Obscures Fashion Moment”。不过Paul Deneve的公开信落款却是“Saint Laurent Paris”总裁、首席执行官。

  很显然,这封公开信对于喜欢热闹的时尚媒体自然不肯放过,况且大多数时尚媒体的编辑可能从私下都或多或少想看看PPR、YSL的各种公关事件吧。这不,Paul Deneve就开始主动制造了。

  公开信全文:

  To the Editor:

  I read with interest the article published in WWD Collections on Nov. 19, "Paris Match"(comparing Hedi Slimane’s debut at Saint Laurent with Raf Simons’ debut at Dior). I always enjoy reading WWD reports but I was disappointed not to see this one take its usual neutral stance. So I’d like to make the following points:

  First, the article summarizes the reviews as “comparatively tepid” for “Slimane’s reverential treatment of smokings (tuxedos) and bohemian dresses,” only quoting three editors, one of them admittedly partial (Cathy Horyn: “a cheerleader” for Raf Simons, the article says). This does not reflect the highly positive coverage Hedi Slimane received from the press commentators around the world, from France to Italy, Japan, China and the U.S.

  I regret that the best-known and oldest trade journal in the fashion industry should reduce the collective talent of all designers showing in Paris to a so-called duel between two fashion houses and two men. The article accords little space to the many other creative talents who showed during Paris Fashion Week and it was about so much more than “Hedi vs. Raf.”

  Finally, to caricature the arrival of Hedi Slimane at Yves Saint Laurent to a banal rivalry with another house or designer encourages people to relegate fashion to a sideshow rather than the main event. In particular, it obscures what is a much richer and I think more important moment in the fashion industry. Hedi’s choice to join YSL was motivated by a very clear vision for the house, which means round-the-clock work for him and all my teams to turn that vision into a reality for all to see and enjoy. It is also for them that I am writing, and to point out that the changes under way at Yves Saint Laurent will bring new excitement and change to the fashion industry at large.

  Yours sincerely,

  Paul Deneve

  President and CEO,

  Saint Laurent Paris

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